First stop: Port Moresby

Port Moresby is the capital of Papua New Guinea, and the first pit stop when entering the country, before continuing to your final destination. With the lack of infrastructure and flights only leaving on certain days of the week, it’s advisable to spend your first and last night here, as cancellations and delays are quite common.


We stayed with Holiday Inn express, a short 15 minute drive from the airport, we arranged airport pickup with our hotel before coming here, which is free might I also add. Our driver were kind enough to point out different landmarks as we drove by. I wasn’t sure what to expect when we arrived, but Port Moresby was more developed than I had imagined. As we drove on further away from the airport, we were struck with the sights of little sheds in the hills, where poverty is so clearly prominent.

I can understand why you should refrain from flashing your western luxuries.

In the city itself there isn’t much to do. The city tours offered by the hotel were the national park and the Parliament House, costing 80 USD. The city is dirty, chaotic and besides a mall it’s quite boring.

It’s not safe to walk around after sunset, even during the day it’s advised to pay for a escort for safe passage. We were approached by a man who offered to escort us around, but since we were only walking 100 meters to check out the mall, we should be fine. The worst day to walk on the streets, is on Friday, which happens to be payday. Large groups of men will gather after sunset. Take precautions and stay inside to avoid being a victim of opportunistic crime.


We were both excited to arrive at the hotel to start making arrangements for our next destination. Little did we know how much stress we were in for. I made the mistake of not booking nor planning anything before arriving, beside our first night of accommodation. It’s not an easy task to plan a itinerary in a country where independent travel is near impossible. We read before coming here that it was possible to arrange tours through your hotel. Wrong. Hotels can only help with arranging tours in the city itself, nothing outside of Port Moresby.

Locals sit outside the mall selling beetlenut.

With terrible WiFi and nearly none existing 3G, we scoured the internet for whatever we could find. There had to be something. Finally we found a great dive resort I had read about a couple of months ago. After checking availability online, we tried calling ahead to make arrangements, but had to respond via email, taking forever to receive a reply. This is when we learned the hard lesson of how painfully slow everything is here, and the lack of airplanes leaving only on Monday, Wednesday and Friday. By the time we knew the price tag, the last tickets were gone. We only had one week, and there wasn’t enough time to fly out on another day. Later we learned that Tufi dive resort is one of the only resorts left in Papua New Guinea, still arranging overnight stays with villagers, who dress in traditional clothing. Also one of the more affordable options in PNG.

Finally we found a great resort in Madang, who offered different tours and activities such as diving, village tours and bird watching. Bingo! We ended up staying with Kalibobo Village. Now that we had it all sorted out, we could finally relax and shake off all the stress of the day, before yet another day of traveling.

Stunning sunset in Port Moresby. Isn’t it beautiful? 

Papua New Guinea, A land of mysteries and wonder

Papua New Guinea, a land of mysteries and wonder. One of the last unexplored territories left in this world. If you’re seeking the off beaten track untouched by mass tourism, look no further. No other place will you find such a diversity in bird species, culture and language. To this day there exist over 800 different languages spoken across the country. Active volcanoes, dense rainforest and hiking routes like the Kokoda Trail is some of the many things that attracts visitors to Papua New Guinea. When I told friends and family where I was going, you can imagine their reaction. Yes Papua New Guinea’s reputation precedes it, and I fully understand the concern for safety.  Inter-tribal rivalry do happen in some parts of the country, but tourist and visitors are not the target. Like anywhere in the world you could become the victim of bag snatching or pickpocket thiefs. If you take sensible precautions and listen to local advice, this can easily be avoided.


Papua New Guinea is still in the early stages of development, the country is rich while the citizens are poor. You should prepare yourself for a cultural shock. The majority of people live without water and electricity, so expect modest conditions when visiting remote areas. The infrastructure is basic and the closest to public transportation you will come by, is minibuses or open trucks. Comfort and style is not a priority, neither is a set time table for departure and arrival. Outside of the main towns, there is only a few, poorly maintained roads making internal flights inevitable. The flights only leave on certain days of the week, and is weather-dependent. Delays and cancellations is not uncommon, being flexible with traveling dates will come in handy. Getting around is also difficult, and near impossible without a hired driver. There isn’t GPS, so unless you know the direction it’s advised to hire someone rather than renting and driving yourself.

The way of life in Papua New Guinea is very relaxed. Time moves differently, and Papua New Guinean’s don’t bother themselves with trivial things like material items. They wake up when the sun rises, go to the local market to exchange merchandise, and sleep when the sun sets. Children and teenagers play ball game by the water, and while we were walking around taking photographs, two boys winked us over to proudly show all the fish they managed to catch with their spear while snorkeling. People are incredibly social, and interaction is an important part of the day.


Another aspect of Papua New Guinea to be aware of, is the male dominated society. Almost everyone I met before traveling there, advised me not to travel alone as a woman. Personally I felt 100% safe while walking in the streets. I did travel together with a male friend, therefore I can’t answer what it’s like for solo female visitors. But covering up legs, and dressing modest will get you a long way. Being a woman in Papua New Guinea is hard. Domestic violence is common, and 80% of all women have experienced in some way, domestic violence. This is only the statistic of the reported cases. It’s not unheard of men having up to 5 wives, the reason behind this I don’t know. Papua New Guinea’s culture is also highly influenced by superstitious beliefs. One of those believes is that a dog is a guardian, to protect their home from evil spirits. If the dog gets sick, it’s a good thing because that means the spirit took the dog, rather than them.

One of the biggest misconception about Papua New Guinea, is that the people are cannibals. That was true, back in the day when the tribes went to war, they would eat the flesh of their dead enemy to consume their power. Today, according to our guide, the only people practicing cannibalism is people living in demonic cults. Cannibalism was made illegal in the 1950s, and the tribes stopped doing it once they learned the dangers of passing on diseases, such as Mad Cow disease.


You’ll need to get organized and plan ahead of your visit. Port Moresby, your first city of embarkation there are plenty of accommodation to choose between, consisting of modern and overpriced hotels. We stayed at Holiday Express Inn, costing 200$/night for a room with two twin beds. This was one of the cheapest accommodations available. You can also stay in in-expensive church run guesthouses with christian missionaries, but must abide by the no drinking, no cursing, no smoking rules.

Papua New Guinea is one of a kind when it comes to experiencing bird watching and diving. There are diving and birdwatching lodges, who specialize in activities to experience local culture, like a sing sing. Getting in contact with the lodges can be difficult, because many of the accommodations are not listed on hotel sites such as booking and The main form of communication is per email, and often through a tour operator or travel agency. While there is wifi and 3G, with Digicel and Vodaphone mobile reception through most of the country, this is extremely expensive. Maybe going incognito and just enjoying your trip, without social media, is not the worst idea. I’m sure instagram and facebook will be there when you return to civilization. We did buy each a simcard, paying around 25 USD for 2.5 GB. If you absolutely can’t go without, I would recommend buying Digicel. It had better reception than Vodaphone.


One of the amazing things about Papua New Guinea, is the different cultural shows taking place during the summer months of July and August in the highlands. The shows is a flash of color and a sensory overload, in the good way. We had the pleasure of experiencing a Sing Sing in Madang. To learn what a Sing Sing is continue reading here.

Papua New Guinea is one of those places that will tug at your heart strings, and bring out your inner explorer. I encountered some of the warmest and friendliest people I have ever met. It will make it hard for you to believe all the craziness going on. You are guaranteed a trip like nothing you’ve ever experienced before, with some of the most beautiful sunrises you ever laid your eyes on.

“Expect the unexpected, in Papua New Guinea.”


Want to know my best tips for a pain free trip to Papua New Guinea? Read my 17 things to know before visiting PNG.

Sing sing – a show of bursting colors

Ever dreamt about escaping the ordinary and just for once in your life, witnessing something completely different from what we grasp as normal? Experiencing a cultural show in Papua New Guinea was a dream come true. As our guide drove us further away from civilization, a stunning scenery of green luscious mountain hilltops unfolded in front of us. “Wow, this is so beautiful. Is this what the world used to look like before it became industrialized?” The car is getting closer to the village, people is waving and smiling at us as we drive by. We reach our destination, and are greeted by two women and two girls.  One of the girls is holding a knife in her hand. What a friendly welcome, no not worried at all. Me and Morten look at each other, and we both have the same “yikes” on our faces. Please god, don’t tell me this is a village of cannibals.

P1120788Our guide goes to park the car, and tells us to follow the women. We can hear drums, and our eyes sparkle with excitement. Is this actually happening? I feel like a child about to open her first Christmas present. My heart is racing and all I wanna do is run towards the sound of the drums. The sound is getting louder, the pace is getting faster and we can hear distinct sound of singing. We walk 100 meters, and we catch our first glimpse of one of the performers. My jaw fell to the ground. Beautiful headpieces covered in colorful feathers, red body paint, yellow flowers around their arms. The women are topless, and only covered with a pink skirt made by the Sago plant. The men have a cloth to cover their private parts, with tasles around their ankles. The villagers of the Haliku tribe show us to a couple of tree logs under the shade, where we could sit and enjoy the show.


“What exactly is a sing sing and what are they singing about?” We ask our guide. “A sing sing is a dance and song about everyday life. They come together and sing about motherhood, fatherhood, about life in the village. The birds, the bees and the insects. They sing about life and death. Every village has a different sing sing, with different costumes and clothing.” The guide goes on to explain that a village will have a sing sing for different celebrations, like when a boy in the age of 14-16, leaves boyhood and enters adulthood. Every year there is a big cultural performance in Mt. Hagan for 3 weeks where all the villagers come together, and put on one extraordinary show. This is your best chance of seeing the different tribes, and the different sing sing. As I sit and enjoy this once in a lifetime experience, I promise myself that I will come back in a year or two to experience the annual sing sing.


This man was one the most energetic performers. To quote the guide “when they first start, they won’t stop.” We were worried that because we payed for a private show, they would feel forced to perform. But they loved it, the show went on and on because they genuinely love to show their culture to visitors. The Haliku tribe takes great pride in their heritage. And we can see why. It really is something emotional to encounter people who are so in touch with their culture, and lives in harmony with nature. The culture of Papua New Guineans is special. It’s different from what we know. In this world that we live in, and take so for granted, where we are so preoccupied with social media and materialistic things, it’s beautiful to see that there still exists communities where social interactions is more important, than materialistic items, like a cellphone. Papua New Guinea has without a doubt found a special place in my heart.


A part of the womens costumes consists of body jewelry made of shells, horns of a wild hog, flowers in their hair and yellow plants as an arm bracelet. This little girl is concentrating on the guide as he tells them where we’re from. 



17 things to know before visiting PNG

I’ve only met a handful of people who’ve been to this fascinating country. This could be due to several different factors, such as a lack of interest, lack of information and infrastructure in the country itself. Or just because of the bad reputation, like cannibals and it being extremely dangerous. One thing is for sure, this is not the place to be if you want to sip on Pina coladas on the beach. So why go? Because no other place will you find the diversity of bird species, a country so unexplored and mysterious. It’s worth every penny, and you will be left with amazement over the stunning scenery, and the colorful culture. With all places that lacks information, you should sit down and do some research. Here are my 17 must-know before visiting Papua New Guinea.


  1. Papua New Guinea is expensive. There is no way around it. The lack of public transportation, means internal flights. Tour operators and travel agency cost a lot of money, often food is included with accommodation. Yes you can try to arrange a tour with locals, but too many times have tourists been stood up, or they took the money for themselves unwilling to share with their village. But there are ways to make it cheaper.
  2. You will need a VISA, this can be arranged at the airport. We read it would take a lot of time, cost 35 USD, and that you would have to pay a departure fee. It went smoothly for us. We didn’t arrange a visa beforehand, and neither did we pay a arrival or departure fee. I can imagine this is something that varies on the person behind the counter. We we’re lucky I guess.
  3. Plan ahead when and where you want to go. You can’t wing it in PNG. Due to a lack of infrastructure, this is incredibly hard. Flights only leave on certain days, for example a flight to Tufi only fly on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, often only once a day. There is also a weight restriction. The norm is 10-16kgs. They didn’t really check this or didn’t care, because we both had more than 17kgs in our luggage. But I can imagine if you meet the wrong person on the wrong day, it will cost a whole bunch of $$, if you have overweight.
  4. Port Moresby is your first port of embarkation when entering the country. It’s wise to spend your first and your last night here, this way you have an extra day in case anything should go wrong or you miss your flight. Or if you land in the country a day before your next flight. I can’t stress enough how important it is to plan before coming here.


  5. Be flexible with your traveling dates. PNG is not a country you can rush your way through or island hop. Again, the lack of infrastructure makes this incredibly hard.
  6. Don’t go seeking adventure in the jungle by yourself. GPS don’t work, it’s incredibly dangerous and if you end up in the wrong territory it can end up badly. The majority of the citizens live in villages and tribes, and there are on going conflict between some of the tribes. Most conflicts get solved by communicating, but fighting do happen. Don’t be that idiot we read about in the newspaper, who ignored the warnings and ended up dead.
  7. This should be a rule wherever you go, but try to avoid conflict. Papua New Guinea is not like most places. You can’t just call the police and expect them to solve the issue. 1. It will take forever for them to come. 2. Eye for an eye. If there is a conflict they will solve it then and there. This is where it can get ugly. We heard crazy stories about some poor fellow who got his home burned down.
  8. If you are prone to mosquito bites, cover up and lather up in mosquito repellent. We used the brand Bushman with 80% deet that we picked up in Australia. I still got bit at least 5 times a day. The mozzies are huge, and the bites can sting. If you tend to swell, I suggest bringing some anti histamines, and some tiger balm to rub over the bites. This really helped me.
  9. And this leaves me to the second point of wearing mosquito repellent. Malaria and Dengue. Yes there is both Malaria and Dengue. Getting Malaria isn’t dangerous in areas where you can seek medical attention. But there are few hospitals here, so talk to your doctor about what kind of preventative medication you can use. We used Malarone, one day before entering the country, every day while there and 14 days after leaving the country. Should you get bitten, this will help fight the infection, but if you still feel ill, seek medical attention. When in doubt, go to the doctor. No need to get paranoid, but beware of symptoms. I’ll attach a link here, so you can read about what symptoms to look after in case you do get bit, and start feeling ill.
  10. You need a yellow fever vaccination before entering the country, and a vaccination card to show upon arrival, in case asked.


  11. Cover up when walking on the streets, mostly your legs. Shorts and skirts should be knee-lenght or below. PNG is a male-dominated country. Dressing provocative will draw unwanted attention. That also goes for flashy items. Refrain from wearing items that make you look like you’re rich. In a country where most are poor, you are asking for trouble.
  12. Avoid going out after sunset and alone. Especially on Fridays as this day is payday. The men often gather in larger groups to drink and munch on beetlenut. If you absolutely have to go alone, bring an escort. This also goes for  the ATM. If you need to withdraw large amounts do it at the airport or bring an escort. Better safe then sorry.
  13. Tufi resort is currently one of the more affordable resorts in PNG. Also one of the only resorts that arrange overnight village stays, where villagers still dress in traditional clothing. Now almost everyone in PNG dress in modern clothes, if this is a dream of yours, you should jump on the opportunity, before they decide to leave the old ways behind.


  14. You won’t see people walking around in traditional clothing, and body paint like seen in pictures. The paint and masks you might have seen, are during Sing Sing. The annual Sing sing is held in Mount Hagan, in July and August, for 3 weeks. The different tribes come together for a spectacular and colorful show. This is also extremely expensive, but they say it’s a out-of-this-world experience. Book your stay early, tickets goes fast.
  15. Plan ahead activities and festivals, like the sing sing in Mt. Hagan. We didn’t have the opportunity to come during the annual show, but were lucky enough to stay with a resort who helped arrange a private Sing Sing. We payed 500 pkn in total, and the money goes to the village. You can see the pictures from the Haliku tribe here.
  16. Don’t take taxis. There is a big chance they will drive off and rob you. Always arrange a trip with the hotel taxi, or a trusted driver recommended by the hotel.
  17. The red between the teeth is caused by the beetlenut. Beetlenut is the seed of the Areca nut, and grows in the tropical Pacific, Southeast, South East Asia and Africa. Chewing the beetlenut can make your mouth and lips turn red, and it gives a stimulating effect, like a high. It’s highly addictive, it destroys your teeth and gums. But due to lack of knowledge, children down to the age of 6 are given their first taste.


There you have it, if there is anything else you would want me to add to the list or you disagree with, let me know. It’s a lot to take in, but don’t let this scare you away from a visit. It’s an amazing and exotic country, and I loved every bit. I never felt scared, or in any kind of danger. Come with an open mind, and get ready to explore. May that be diving, bird watching, sunrise gazing or indulging in culture, you will be left with stories to last you a lifetime.

Papua New Guinea next!

“Time flies by when you’re having fun”. Isn’t that how it goes? That quote fits perfectly for Australia. It’s been amazing, I don’t even know where the time went. All of a sudden it’s time for me to leave. Yet again, I leave a piece of my heart in yet another place. Little pieces of me is scattered all around the world, and it’s such a pleasant feeling. One of the best things about Australia, was to visit my high school friend, Tonje. She lived (just moved back to Norway this week) in The Gold Coast, if you didn’t know by now, now you know. Tonje took us to these incredible places you can’t even imagine exists. In the 10 days we spent in GC, we went to different food markets. My favorite was Eat Street, which is why I wrote an entire article about it. I mean hello, Unicorn ice-cream? What’s not to love? We visited the relaxed hippie town of Byron Bay, the gorgeous Fingal Head with it’s clear blue water and powdery white sand, Killan Falls, Brisbane. Last weekend we went camping in Stradis, or glamping as I like to call it. Stradis was stunning, very relaxed and beautiful. As I wrote in an earlier post, it’s been over 10 years since last time I went camping, and it was the perfect ending before Cairns. We ate crackers and cheese, drank plenty of wine while sharing stories. We even saw Kangaroos and a koala bear, in the wild!! The cutest little rascals, literally in someone’s backyard, while the koala was chilling in the tree. Thanks to Tonje’s good eyes, I would’ve never seen them. Thank you for that.



Me and Tonje did a TB to Cuba and went skinny dipping under the stars while camping. Skinny dipping is one of my favorite things to do. It’s such a freeing feeling, like your doing something your not supposed to. You feel so alive! Whenever those kind of feelings arise, you should do more of that. It’s exactly what I try to do everyday, to live in the moment. It’s easy to get caught up in everyday life, but it’s important to remember to seize the moment and enjoy the small stuff. The moments that sets your soul on fire. Australia went by too fast, but that’s what’s so good about traveling. You can always come back. The last leg of this trip, and the highlight here in Australia was without a doubt skydiving. No words can describe this euphoric feeling of being free. I felt so alive! You can read about that here. And of course I did a little dive in the Great Barrier Reef. Can’t travel all the way to Australia without a dip in the infamous reef. Now I can finally cross those two items off the list.

In one hour I’m flying out to Papua New Guinea. I have no idea what to expect, I will most likely be without internet for the next 2-3 weeks to come. I’ll check in whenever possible, crossing fingers for whatever good stories I will come back with. I am so excited for the unknown! So many have asked why we’re going to PNG, it’s a very dangerous destination. It’s also unchartered and no one really knows anything, beside what they’ve read online or through an article. That’s why I’m so excited to be able to give you my first hand experience of this unknown country. With PNG being so off everyone’s radar, it’s exactly why I want to go there. Wish us good luck and let’s debunk this whole cannibal thing, once and for all!


Until’ next time,


Bucketlist: Skydiving!!

There are few things in this world that scares me, like heights. I’ve had the biggest fear of heights for as long as I can remember. My fear isn’t always triggered by the same thing, but it usually pops out whenever there is a open space, like when I’m standing near a cliff. The thought alone of Bungy jumping or skydiving would almost have me in tears. When I set out on this trip I had one goal, one thing I refused to leave Australia without completing. That goal was skydiving. And you bet I finally did it!! I can’t believe I actually went through with it, but am so I glad, and proud of myself, for doing it. It’s the best thing I have ever done in my life. I was trembling with fear, and I wanted to vomit. I wanted to cry, and I wanted to scream for being scared. Skydiving is not only scary if you’ve never done it before, but it’s a very emotional thing to do. It brings up a lot of scary feelings. The day before I kept repeating the words “I can do it, I want to do it, I will do it, I am doing it” like a mantra. I booked my skydive the day before because I know myself well enough to know, given enough time, I would back out and cancel, even it meant losing everything I’d payed for. My instructor, Richard, came over while we waited for the last clients to check in, to chat up a little bit. His calm presence helped me stay relaxed, all that stress went away. I felt calm after that, until we were up in the air. Those little airplanes are no where near the same as the big ones. You definitely feel this 10 times more. The door was also right in front of me. My panick didn’t start until the captain announced it was time to jump out. There was one girl before me, thank god I wasn’t going first. “Just stay calm” Richard says, right before the door goes up. “Remember, stay calm”. And swoosh down she went. “Oh my god, ooooooh my god, oooh my god” was all I could say. F***. No turning back now. I went up in the plane, but my mind refused to grasp what was about to happen. I wasn’t really going to go through with it, right? Pfff, no. No. NO! Before I could start negotiating not having to go through with it, my instructor had scooped us out to the door and my feet was dangling outside of the plane, my head pulled back. Oh shit. This is it. All of a sudden I feel the wind everywhere, those 200km/h hits me hard in my stomach. Thank god the instructor wore earplugs because I was screaming, with full lung capacity.

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I opened my eyes and it took 2 seconds from we exited the plane, for me to realize I was flying. All that fear went straight away. I was blasted with amazement. This extreme euphoric feeling of happiness and wonder. A burst of laughter and a non stop scream of victory with “this is so awesome!!” In those seconds where we were free falling, I was high, high on life!! I felt so alive, more alive than I have ever felt in the longest of times. Last but not least, I felt so proud of myself for going through with it, and pushing myself to the maximum. Not letting fear dictate how I live my life. It’s scary, but not doing the things your heart yearns for, is even more scarier. Skydiving is one of those things you can’t explain, it’s something you need to discover for yourself. If you dare to jump, I can promise you, what you will experience is an out-of-this-world sensation. So what are you waiting for?

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